Mrs. Tawes's Maryland Crab Cakes

Such a hullabaloo was engendered! In January 1963 Senator Jay Glen Beall, Republican of Maryland, made a gastronomic attack on the Democratic administration. He charged that under its aegis the Maryland crab cakes at the Senate Restaurant were an insult to his state. A few days after this public declaration, Senator Beall arose in the Senate and announced that he had received support from a Democrat - the wife of Maryland Governor J. Millard Tawes. He waved the letter from Avalynne Tawes aloft in a second condemnation of what he called "spurious Maryland crab cakes." It is not known whether the Senate dining room has changed its recipe as a result, but here is the authentic version, according to Maryland crab-cake fanciers.

Poularde Maison Blanche

The first lesson Chef Verdon had when studying the likes and dislikes of the Kennedys in the kitchen of La Caravelle Restaurant prior to departing for the White HOuse as chef was the preparation of chicken in champagne sauce, a great favorite with J.F.K. and a dish which still appears from time to time on the Caravelle Menu as Poularde Maison Blanche. Here it is, altered ever so slightly for the home cook.

• To start with, make a chicken broth by boiling together 4 chicken necks and 4 gizzards or 1 pound of chicken bones in 4 quarts of water. When it comes to a boil, decant it into another container and wash out the pot. Then start again with 2 leeks, 3 branches of celery, 3 carrots, 1 onion studded with 4 cloves, 1 pinch of thyme, 3 bay leaves, 3 unpeeled garlic cloves, and a few peppercorns. Simmer for 1 hour, skimming off fat occasionally, then strain. You should have a little more than 2 quarts of broth.
• Melt 4 ounces butter and stir in 1/2 cup flour. Cook over low heat, stirring continuously, for 5 minutes. Add slowly 4 cups chicken broth, stirring vigorously with wire whisk. Cook this gently for 30 minutes. The result is a chicken veloute.
• Clean and boil 32 small mushroom caps in salted water with a little lemon juice and 1 Tbsp. chopped onion, and cook a few minutes. Add 2 cups washed rice and 1/2 cup white raisins. Mix. Add 4 cups hot chicken broth, salt to taste, and bring to a boil. Cover with a circle of buttered brown or waxed paper the size of the pan, cover, and bake at 350 deg. F. for 18 minutes. Remove to a cold container and mix in a little butter with a fork.
• Roast 2 chickens (about 2 1/2 pounds each) in a 350 deg. F. over 25 to 30 minutes. Remove from oven and add 6 shallots, 6 mushroom stems, and 4 parsley stems. Return to oven and finish roasting (about 1/2 hour). When done remove the chickens and skim the fat. Add 1 cup champagne and reduce liquid by about 2/3. Add the chicken veloute and 1 pint heavy cream. Cook 20 minutes over low heat, strain, and add 1 Tbsp. butter. Sauce must be light-colored.
• Arrange bed of rice on platter. Top with chickens and the mushrooms. Pour champagne sauce over all.

Poularde Maison Blanche Simplified

To achieve nearly the same results with a great deal less work, bake cut-up chicken pieces in a 350 deg. F. oven about 30 minutes. Remove from oven and add shallots, mushroom stems, and parsley as above and return to the oven to finish baking. Meanwhile soak white raisins for 1/2 hour and then cook them in canned chicken broth for 5 minutes. Prepare instant rice according to directions, using broth with raisins for your liquid.

Prepare a sauce of canned chicken gravy and heavy cream - half as much cream as gravy. When chicken is cooked, remove from the pan and set it on a bed of rice. Add 1 cup champagne to the pan in which the chicken was cooked and reduce the liquid by about 2/3. Add the chicken gravy and cook 20 minutes over low heat. Strain and add 1 Tbsp. butter in little dabs. Sprinkle chicken with contents of large can sliced mushrooms (drained) and pour over this the champagne sauce.

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Lady Bird's Spinach Souffle

The White House has announced that this recipe is a favorite of the First Lady. We can understand why spinach was served at the Presidential inaugural dinner.

Make a thick white sauce of 2 Tbsp. each of butter and flour, slowly blended with 1 cup milk (rich milk or light cream preferred). Add 1/2 tsp. salt and 1/8 tsp. pepper. Mix well. Slowly stir into the sauce 3 egg yolks beaten until thick and lemony. Add 1 cup chopped cooked spinach and 1/2 cup grated cheese. Saute 1/4 cup chopped onions in just a little butter and add to the mixture.

Beat 3 egg whites until stiff and fold carefully into the spinach mixture. Turn into a greased casserole. Place the casserole in a pan of hot water and bake in a preheated (350 deg F.) oven 45 to 50 minutes. Serve immediately when done. This makes a superb accompaniment for a simple main dish, such as steak or roast.

Serves 4 to 6.

Apple Pan Dowdy - Midcentury Style

Apples were as popular in Pierce's day as in that of his fellow New Englander John Adams. Like Adams, Pierce was acquainted with many versions of the delicious pan dowdy. This one undoubtedly caught his fancy as much as it does ours. (It is also extra-special when made with rhubarb or blueberries).

First, make a cottage-pudding batter by creaming 1 well-beaten egg with 1/2 cup sugar and 1/4 cup butter. Add 1 1/2 cups sifted flour, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 2 tsp. baking powder alternately with 1/2 cup milk. Mix all well. Set aside. Preheat oven to 350 deg. F. Grease a 1 1/2-quart baking dish. Fill it with 3 cups peeled, sliced tart apples. Sprinkle a mixture of 1/2 cup brown sugar or molasses, 1/4 tsp. each of nutmeg, cinnamon, and salt over the apples. Bake until the apples are soft. Then pour the cottage-pudding batter over the apples and continue baking until the top is lightly browned and crusty. Serve directly from the dish if you wish, or turn it out with the apple-side up. Delicious with plain or whipped cream on top, or hard sauce or even ice cream.
Serves 6.

Hopping John

Like another Andrew who had lived in the White House - Jackson - Johnson was born in North Carolina and later moved to Tennessee. Perhaps the two Andrews had more than their first name and birth state in common: they shared a fondness for Carolina specialty called Hopping John. With black-eyed pease and rice as the base, the recipe for this Southern mainstay varied from kitchen to kitchen. We don't insist, as both Andrews would have, that you serve it New Year's Day for good luck, but it does make a delicious family supper.

Soak 1 1/2 cups dried black-eyed pease overnight. Bring them to boil slowly in a heavy saucepan. Add 2 or strips bacon, cut in pieces, or 1/4 pound chopped salt pork, and 1 sliced onion. Boil gently for 1 1/2 hours. Then add 1 cup uncooked rice, 2 slices hot red pepper (add more if you want the flavor hot-hot), and simmer another 30 minutes. Add additional water if necessary. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot with butter and strips of broiled bacon decorating the top.
Serves 60

Another Hoppin' John recipe that I've used for years.

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